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A tribute to the “mundane”

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pb281290I can’t believe that I’ll be leaving Thailand in less than 15 hours…and for the first time, I don’t even know where to begin this post.

I guess I’ll start with the little things that I’ve grown to love and will miss about my life here; the routine that I followed a few days a week, the weekend trips we’d spontaneously venture through, and everything else that became the “mundane.” For example, waking up each morning and seeing the sunrise by 6:00am while running a few miles and then training, which usually entailed lazing around and laughing when Ajaan (teacher) wasn’tn6412354_36890449_50681 looking. The image to the left reveals us horsing around for the camera while our teacher talks to a man! However, after suffering a plethora of bruises on our elbows and calves, it finally paid off and I am now officially certified in the fundamentals of the art of Muay Thai!

I’ll miss taking a motorcycle taxi to class every morning, or taxi cabs back to my apartment every night for a little over a dollar. I’ll yearn for the contagious generosity and jai yen yen (cool heart) of Thai people. Although frustrated by it at first, I have become so accustomed to the laid back atmosphere of the lifestyle here; so much so that I can easily imagine myself feeling more culture shock when I return to the fast paced life of the States. I’ll miss always requesting the DJ at clubs to play Job 2 Do (video posted below) so that all farangs and Thais could sing “doo dooo dooo doo tah tum” together.

pc021361Although the lack of any real structure in the curriculum of most of my classes might have caused my mind to dwindle academically in the past four months, I will miss the atmosphere of each of them. I’ll also miss the Rangsit campus and the street around it that is so easily accessible for delicious and cheap Oreo and fruit smoothies, internet cafes, and more markets, of course. I’ll miss our educational fieldtrips to puppet shows and Thai theatre, floating bazaars and historical ruins. Most of all, I’ll miss sharing a classroom with students of so many different cultures and the numerous opportunities I’ve had to befriend people who come from far off faces of the planet than me.pc091441

I’ll long for the real dollar-menu meals, especially fried tofu Indian curry with rice and cucumbers (my favorite Thai dish ever)! Nothing could be sweeter than Thai desserts like fresh mango and sticky rice with coconut milk or the various ripe, tropical fruits I could pick up on the street for 10 Baht (about 30 cents). Despite it all, it’ll be odd finding pizza and French fries and falafels with such ease in the States, whereas here we travel miles and miles pb110405to satisfy our farang-food cravings.

It’s going to be strange going back to the extravagant luxuries that is provided to us naturally in the States; hot showers, wireless internet connections everywhere, mosquitoless rooms, and having people actually understand me because I can at least speak English better than I can attempt to speak Thai! I don’t have to always carry toilet paper (or “winner paper,” as they refer to it here) in my purse (shown to the right) instead of running the risk of its absence in most toilets, the squatters especially. I also won’t have to carry Tiger Balm (similar to Zambuk) and deet bug repellent to prevent ninja mosquito attacks pb301356anywhere we go. What’s even stranger is knowing that it’s December but looking outside and seeing that it’s toasty during the “winter” of Thailand, which far surpasses California in terms of mildness.

I’ll miss the excuses to celebrate something and lack of excuses to get bored! For example, last week was the King’s birthday (and Durban Dada’s!) on December 5, which in turn is a national holiday. Masses of Thai people flooded to the beaches and we decided to join them because it was our last opportunity to relax (and study because it was the weekend before finals) on the smooth, white sands of Thai beaches. We went to Koh Samed and shared the shore with Europeans who didn’t wear enough clothing (even for the beach) as well as large groups of gay men who blasted music by Madonna, pc051407Rihanna and Cher on their portable radios and performed photo shoots of each other playing in the sand. I liked Koh Samed more than Koh Chang because the atmosphere was more social with a more diverse group of visitors and the island is smaller and easier to explore on foot. This week is graduation at Rangsit University so the streets are currently filled with vendors selling multicolored teddy bears and plump bouquets of sunflowers and roses. Despite the fact that there’s less than 1% of Thailand’s population is Christian or any form of it, I’ve seen Christmas trees everywhere; further establishing the theory that in Thailand, any excuse ispc0514062 fair-game to whip out more good food, music, and vendor-markets in the street!

However, despite all that I will miss here, I have so much to look forward to even within the next month and I can say that I am ready to go home. Now, I just have to overcome the process of the final goodbyes, which started too soon and hasn’t even hit its climax yet as well as the 24-hour expedition back to San Jose! Also, thank you all so much for reading my lengthy rants. I hope it’s been entertaining and informative. Also, keep in mind that the blogs will continue, as there are many adventures to come, even at home! :)

C

 

Written by mosaiceye

December 13, 2008 at 10:03 am

Posted in Asia, Thailand

Like day and night

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pb120467Thailand truly has everything; from festivals of all kinds rejoicing food, culture, dance, phases of the moon, and music, as well as beautiful beaches and exotic temples, fashion week, little rural towns, magnificent cultural theatres, fabulous shopping sprees, big cities and crazy drivers, to “shows” that promiscuously exhibit young and old women, prostitution, wild parties and bars that come alive in the darkness, and shady karaoke bars lit up like Mexican Restaurants. Since I’ve been in Thailand, I’ve noticed how much the ambiance alters as the sky turns dim. In the daylight, one can see the gold and red glitz of meticulously constructed temples (there are so many around Thailand because one can gain merit by contributing to the construction of a temple). One can also visit a crowdedpb281297 market that vends saccharine Thai desserts of all colors, attend a Buddhist festival celebrating the vegetarianism, or explore one of the most lavish and affluent shopping malls in Thailand that showcase labels like Gucci and Prada: Central World or Siam Paragon. Then under the stars, one can hear music in the distance from karaoke bars and night clubs that host lady boys and and range of other people wanting to have an amusing time. I obviously don’t partake in half of it nor do I believe it in, but I can’t help but appreciate it because it’s a unique addition of multiplicity to life in Thailand. Everyday here is new and exciting, even if it entails me going to class and training for Muay Thai; I’m always meeting new locals, trying a different, delicious Thai dish or discovering one I’ve been hankering for (like Falafels!) somewhere close by, while attaining a new level of awareness, gratitude, and fitness. The images above illustrates one of my friends lighting our little krathong during the Loy Krathong festival and the second is of my Muay Thai teacher, Yod, demonstrating a fierce jump-knee to the chin!

The customs and traditions here aren’t always understandable to me but in most cases, it’s because they’re so different. For instance, a lady named Boi, who is a hairdresser at a salon called “So Cute” across from Rangsit, has an extracurricular activity to “gain merit.” My comprehension of reaping merit in n6412354_36266457_6202Buddhism is achieved by doing gracious things for others, accumulating good karma and therefore earning a spot in “heaven.” Boi racks up her merit by sitting and waiting on the streets of Bangkok (areas that experience a lot of crashes and pedestrian injuries or deaths) and cleans up bodies or body parts after a car accident (because somebody’s got to do it). I don’t understand why they can’t find ways to prevent the crashes to begin with by helping people cross the road or making street signs.

Near where I live, there’s a spot lit up with neon purple and pink lights, which essentially attracted my friends and to visit it. We were hoping it was a Mexican restaurant with a menu listing nachos, salsa, and burritos, or at least French fries. We enter awkwardly to a stage with girls singing karaoke and a room blocked off by a dark tint on the windows, as well as tables and chairs. We quickly realized it was not what we thought but we proceeded to order a few snacks and drinks since we were there. Observing the activities that went on, we noticed that at least three girls would perform a short lip-sink on the stage but only some of them would receive a garland of flowers to decorate their necks by the end of the tune. Those very girls would step off the stage and step into the company of a man. Those we didn’t receive a garland went up again a few minutes later. We concluded that the garlands meant that they were purchased, forpb120498 lack of a better word, by a spectator. We ate our fries and left as soon as possible. On the way out, I noticed a collections of Polaroid pictures portraiting the girls; a menu, perhaps? It was difficult to see how uncomfortable and uninterested the girls were on stage, in short and tight, velvety dresses and dominatrix boots. I’ve since learned that karaoke in Thailand is more than goons trying to sing to their preferred tunes, but it’s typically associated with prostitution.

Prostitution in Thailand first was mentioned in the West in reports as early as the 16th and 17th centuries. Since the Vietnam War, Thailand has gained international notoriety among travelers from many countries as a sex tourism destination. A polygamist tradition of “mia noi” (“minor wives”) at least amongst the wealthier elites including the Thai royalty existed until modern times and still does today. MP Thirachai Sirikhan, a Thai politician, has said that “to have a mia noi (mistress) is an individual’s right. There should be no problem as long as the politician causes no trouble to his family or society.” Consequently, visiting a prostitute or paid mistress is considered common, and many Thai women believe that prostitution actively reduces the incidence of rape. Prostitution has been technically illegal in pb140543Thailand since 1960, when a law was passed under pressure from the United Nations. However, the prohibition is seldom enforced. Instead, the government has instituted a system of monitoring sex workers in order to prevent their mistreatment and to control the spread of sexually transmitted diseases. Prostitution in Thailand exists because of several factors; the economic cause is the lack of employment opportunities for large numbers of uneducated rural women, particularly during the period of the Vietnam War when a large number of US troops passed through Thailand. Another reason is that ordinary Thais deem themselves tolerant of other people, especially those who they perceive as downtrodden. This acceptance has allowed prostitution to flourish without much of the extreme social stigma found as in other countries. Thais may view prostitution as an opportunity for a woman to meet a rich farang who could take her back to the West and give her a luxurious and comfortable life beyond that in Thailand. However, the most important reason for prostitution being a lasting industry in Thailand is that many Thai men of all levels of society, especially government officials, actively protect and promote the sex industry, the latter through entertainment-related media and activities such as massage parlors, pool bars, and karaoke bars.

The good news is that Thailand has made progress on decreasing AIDs/HIV rates within the country. The photo above shows me at Cabbages and Condoms Restaurant in Bangkok. The restaurant is owned by Thailand’s Population and Community Development Association, a nonprofit founded in the ’70s to promote family planning.  The group’s leader, Mechai Viravaida, took to the nation’s streets and airwaves to talk about safe sex and the importance of wearing condoms. To fight taboos against discussing the subject, he often used the playful tone that’s evident at Cabbages & Condoms, for instance, taking a condom (instead of a mint) after dinner (and you can choose from republican or democratic condoms) as well as figurines made entired of condoms and birth control pills.

A few kids in my program have attended an infamous form of entertainment called the “Ping Pong Show.” It sounds fun at first because for me, I think table tennis! However, it’s nothing of that sort. Thai people, especially the taxi drivers, believe (maybe even accurately) that foreigners love these shows and there have been numerous instances where we’ve been advised to witness one. What these are essentially, are girls (mostly young) exhibiting various skills, I guess you could say, with their vaginas; from shooting fire darts to cracking up bottles with bottle-caps. I haven’t been to one myself but I can’t imagine the distress I’d experience being in the same stadium. However, I figure, it’s probably better to be out there than in bed with 20 different men carrying possibly 10 different diseases every day and night.

Until next…

Written by mosaiceye

December 7, 2008 at 1:26 pm

Posted in Asia, Muay Thai, Thailand

Do it for the kids…of Cambodia

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Before I elaborate on my ventures in Cambodia (not Bolivia!), I just want to say that life at Rangsit has untitled1not been negatively influenced by the current political situation in Thailand. Briefly, what’s going on here is that Anti-government protesters have said they will not cease power over the towers and disruption of the airports until the current prime minister, and accused “puppet” of Thaksin, Mr. Somchai resigns, which he has refused to do. The image to the right is one that I took at the Election Watch in Bangkok at the beginning of this month; it shows Somchai and the U.S. Ambassador of Thailand, Eric G. John. The anti-government People’s League for Democracy (PAD) have taken over both Suvarnabhumi international airport and a smaller international airport called Don Mueang airport, which is just 15 minutes away from Rangsit University. A state of emergency has been declared at both sites. The protesters have remained defiant, claiming they were prepared to “fight to the death” (according to an article off BBC). Thailand has been in political turmoil since former Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra was ousted in a military coup in 2006. The PAD is comprised of royalists, businessmen and the urban middle class who believe that the government is corrupt and hostile to the monarchy. Luckily, Rangsit is far enough from all of this for me to feel like I’m cozy in a safe little bubble.

But otherwise, this has affected people beyond Thailand; thousands of passengers are stranded in Bangkok, including hundreds of Thai Muslims trying to travel to Saudi Arabia for the Hajj pilgrimage. Plus, some of my friends and a few faculty members went to Burma a week ago for student recruitment and they were supposed to return on Saturday. A couple of my other friends vacationed to Indonesia and they were stuck there for a few more days passed their planned departure. It is so unfortunate that this is happening the way it is, without any consideration of what these protests are actually doing for the country overall; people are not going to want to come here anymore and I think everyone needs to experience the wonders of Thailand! Further discussed in the article, the airport closure will cost the country around $4 billion in lost business and cause serious damage to its reputation as a tourist destination, something which will take the country years to recover from, especially during a time like this, where the economy of the world is already in shambles…

pb231228Cambodia:

Last weekend, a small group of us went to Cambodia on a whim. We took a bus from Bangkok, four and a half hours to the border. We spent USD$35 for the Cambodian visa which decorated yet another page of our passports. Then, we made a very wise decision to rent a private taxi to take us to Siem Reap. The second we rolled over the border, casinos and a mountainous road clouted us right in the faces! First of all, gambling is sturdily illegal in Thailand and there are warnings everywhere the second you land in the airport prohibiting the act of public gaming of such. Secondly, the roads…infamous for its jaggedness, proved to be a trek. It would’ve taken 6 hours to get to our destination in a public bus but it took half the time in a taxi! There were times during the ride where I felt like the tires were sure to explode, and miraculously, all four of them survived until the end. Supposedly, there’s a conspiracy theory that an unnamed airline is paying the Cambodian government to pb231222stall any sort of maintenance of these roads, while clearly failing to consider the citizens of the country and the plethora of people who cross the border every single day.

We stayed in a gorgeous place called Golden Temple Villa that lived up fabulously to its name. Our bedrooms were decorated, proving that an orange and purple color scheme can be attractive; it was also amazingly clean and welcoming. The name Siem Reap means the ‘Defeat of Siam’ which is today’s Thailand; it refers to a centuries-old bloodbath between the two countries. In 1975 (painfully recent), Siem Reap’s population, along with many of the cities’ and towns’ in Cambodia, were evacuated by the communist Khmer Rouge, the communist ruling political party, and driven into the countryside. However, since Pol Pot’s (the leader of the Khmer Rouge) death in 1998, relative stability and a rejuvenated tourist industry have been significant steps in a tentativepb200630 but progressive journey forward to recovery. With the advent of war, Siem Reap entered a long slumber from which it only began to awake in the mid-1990s. But today, Siem Reap is undoubtedly Cambodia’s fastest growing city and serves as a small charming gateway town to the world famous heritage of the Angkor temples. Thanks to those attractions, Siem Reap has transformed itself into a major tourist hub; it is a vibrant town with modern hotels and architectures. Despite international influences, Siem Reap and its people have conserved much of the town’s image, culture and traditions. That’s why I loved it so much. Despite the masses of sightseers flooding the temples like Angkor Wat and the “tomb raider” temple (consequently named after being featured in the movie with Angelina Jolie), I could still feel a pb200915purity lingering strongly in the air.

The first day, we embarked on a tour of the three main Angkor temples in Siem Reap. Angkor is a name conventionally applied to the region of Cambodia, yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site (that’s three visited since I’ve been in South East Asia!), serving as the seat of the Khmer empire that flourished from approximately the ninth century to the fifteenth century A.D. (The word “Angkor” is derived from the Sanskrit “nagara,” meaning “city”). We visited Angkor Wat which is said to be the world’s largest single religious monument. It was beautiful and I felt like I was in some sort of peaceful palace because my friends and I went when it was a bit quieter, during sunrise. We also visited the pb2009571many faces of Angkor Thom, which was the last and most enduring capital city of the Khmer empire. Our last temple of the day was the “Tomb Raider” temple. Unlike Angkor Wat, the lack of maintenance and the tree roots are what transformed the temple into mostly rubble. Tree trunks sit dominantly atop the cracked walls of this sanctuary, draping the boulders like a solid curtain with its powerful roots.

Pub Street was where we splurged our night times. Since it was lined with diverse restaurants and bars and a close-by night market, it was always filled with people. We even ran to a couple of people we met in Vietnam randomly and a few in our program who came to Cambodia for the weekend pb200927independently. During dinner, we watched Apsara dancers demonstrate various segments of the Ramayana. Apsara, the classical Cambodian ballet, is a stunningly graceful, 2000 year–old blend of sinuous hand gestures and graceful body movements. All the dancers were absolutely beautiful in their colorful and detailed costumes. In the photo to the left, I am surrounded by elegant and graceful Apsara-dancer carvings that decorate the many pillars of Angkor Thom.

The following days we went to the Landmine Museum, run by a man called Aki Ra, who is currently in the pb211058process of demining landmines which he probably planted years previously. He is a former Khmer Rouge conscripted child soldier who from 1993 to 2007, removed landmines by hand in Cambodia. He employs very unusual demining techniques, usually working only with a knife and a sharp stick. Today, he and his wife Hourt have brought home nearly 20 children who have lived through landmine accidents or are orphaned. They provide these children with an education, resources for succes, and a family atmosphere.

pb221088The three nations with the largest landmine problem today are Afghanistan, Angola, and Cambodia; the Cambodian conflict may be the first war in history in which mines claimed more victims, both combatant and civilian, than any other weapon. Serious. Landmines are known as hidden killers, weapons of mass destruction in slow motion, or the perfect soldier which never sleeps or misses. They have killed or maimed more people than have been killed by nuclear, biological, and chemical weapons combined. Unlike other weapons, most mines are designed to maim because a soldier withoutpb221092 a limb is more of a burn in the budget of the enemy than a dead soldier. A mine has no target, it recognizes no cease-fire and every hour, three people in Cambodia become victims of landmines. One landmine costs as little as USD$1-$3 to plant but up to USD$500,000 to demine! It’s terribly sad that so many countries (37), including India and the United States (thanks Bush!) have not signed the Ottawa Treaty which bans all anti-personal landmines, and they continue to be produced there. Sad story.

The final day in Siem Reap, we paid a visit to the War Museum, pb221087which housed a remarkable collection of equipment and arsenal, from tanks of all sizes, to guns, and of course, landmines of every variation. Our guide was a victim of many kinds of tragedies, all sparked by the war. He lost a leg to one of the five landmines he had encountered in his life, he’s blinded in one eye, he has pieces of metal beneath his skin which in turn give him seizures every so often; the worst part is that people believe he has epilepsy, something which banishes himpb221169 from heaven and causes society to ostracize him and limit the work he is given. He shared with us the scars and grievance for himself and his country. Leaving a bit sullen, we went on to clamber through a lush jungle temple called Beng Mealea, which hosted a few tourists since it’s about an hour off the main trail. As we made our way through the wreckage (also due to the power of the trees), we admired what was left under the drape of roots and leaves of carved-in-stone scenes from Hindu mythology. The temple maintained an awe-inspiring beauty despite the in ruins; I can’t begin to imagine how it must’ve looked when it was in its prime so many years ago.

pb231182Outside the temple was a modest school called the Cambodia Children Rural Development Organization: Training school for the poor, homeless, and orphaned. Today, it’s simply two straw huts covering a few tables donated from Australia, a white board, and a few learning children, most under the age of 10. We spent a bit of time there; hearing about the future aspirations of this NGO that is surviving to help these kids make a living for themselves in the future. Cambodia is poor, there’s nothing newsbreaking about that. The government doesn’t support thosepb231187 who have been victimized by war, landmines, death, etc. and there isn’t enough sustenance for education, especially for the underprivileged. I enjoyed spending time at the school because for once, I didn’t feel futile when exposed to such destitution. Donating notebooks and pens, rice, etc. would make at least a spark of a difference. Although it would be difficult to use a squatter toilet in the midst of the jungle, I could imagine myself helping out as a teacher at a school like that nevertheless, which really needs all the help it could get, even if it’s just for a couple of months. But you know what, despite it all; the historical horror, dim present, and striving future, there is still laughter and a sense of adventure in the air, ambition and ardor in their minds, and most inspiringly, peace in their smiles.

Peace

Written by mosaiceye

November 29, 2008 at 2:12 pm

Posted in Asia, Cambodia, Thailand

When in Thailand…make a festival out of any occasion

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pb0401731First things first, O to B to A-M-A!!! I celebrated Obama’s sweeping victory at the Hyatt Hotel in Bangkok along side members of the U.S. embassy, students from various schools in the Bangkok area, and other tourists from all over the world interested in the change that was about to proceed. The students of the International College were cordially invited to join the Election Watch 2008. We walked into a large conference room filled with people in school uniforms, suits, and patriotic colors, as well as tables decorated with floating balloons and cocktail bites. When CNN finally announced their projection of “Barack Obama: The 44th President of the United States,” with the final count being 365 Electoral College votes vs. 173, my friends, not only from America but also from Bhutan, China, Nepal, and Thailand, all jumped in excitement, anticipation and pride (in being American). I’m sure it was an exciting time for many n26304637_32867443_7175people all over the planet who could find one relation or another to Obama. After we got back to Rangsit, taxi cab drivers, teachers, and other students struck up conversations about “Oh-bah-maaah” (in wonderful Thai accents), and market venders sold artsy t-shirts exhibiting his face (of course I purchased one!).

Due to the fact that so much has happened since my last post to steer me off track from updating my blog, this one will be brief, with the pictures doing most of the explaining…

For Halloween, my friends and I spent one night in Bangkok at a karaoke bar caroling untitledbeside Thais who were 10 times more talented at it than we were. It was amusing nevertheless and I discovered that Asians are serious about their Karaoke! The International College also threw the students a Halloween party the following night at a nearby club called Sit Nee. This event marked the first time when I really got to know my classmates outside school regalia and classroom manner. It occurred to me that despite the fact that we are all from adverse parts of the planet, we enjoy very similar things like dancing, listening to music, laughing, and ultimately having a great time with fabulous company. I dressed up as the national tree of Thailand, the “Golden Shower Tree” or in Thai, Dok Khuen (I figured I’d be patriotic in some nerdy form). Most people were dressed up in costumes and many of the teachers attended as well. The image to the left is of me sitting beside the director and coordinator of the International College.pb110410

Soon enough, another festival rolls around in Thailand. Loy Krathong, one of the most beautiful festivals, occurred a few weeks ago. Loy Krathong means something like “floating banana leaf”and this occasion is celebrated on the 12th full moon of the lunar calendar. Thai people artistically construct banana boats out of biodegradable items like banana leaves, flowers of all sorts, food, toothpicks, etc. and float it down the river or lake to pay tribute to the gods of pb120492the water. Krathongs can be made incredibly elaborate; in shapes of towering crowns, graceful swans, or rich lotus flowers. People make wishes as they waft away their Krathongs filled with hopes of wealth and good health, typically represented by coins, incense sticks, and candles. Sneakily, Little children rake in the krathongs of others to the shore to collect the money! At Rangsit University, we burst fireworks on the track and field, browsed through a huge market set up right on campus., and even released rice-paper lanterns into the sky. The freed lanterns looked like a collection of fireflies gliding away toward the moon. We even made our own krathongs in my Thai Civilization class and floated them in the fountain pond in from of the building. It was such a pleasant celebration, I’m really glad I was here to experience it and I only wish that we had something like it in the States. There was also a Mr. and Miss Loy Krathong that was similar to Homecoming King and Queen at our high schools in the States. Teachers nominate students to fill those positions and they are eventually crowned before their classmates in a large auditorium with music, decorations, and a buoyant amibance.pb080262

The weekend after, a few of my friends and I traveled to the second largest island in Thailand, Koh Chang to spend a few relaxing days on the beach once again. It means “Elephant Island” in Thai for the elephant shape of its headland, but I didn’t see any while there because elephants are not indigenous to the island. The recent success of Koh Chang as a serious tourist destination has been phenomenal yet it remains a lot more peaceful and less developed than Phuket.  We were there for a few days and since the main road perimeters the while island, we figured we’d have to provide ourselves with an independent form of transportation. I rode my first motorcycle here and I was able to see waterfalls, the mountains, the countryside, and a beach called “White Sand” beach.  It’s amazing how many precuations the U.S. takes when driving an automobile, especially a motorcyclepb090327 in comparison to Thailand. Motorscooters or motorcycles are incredibly common here and in Koh Chang, all we had to do was present the lender with an ID of any kind and 150 Baht (about $5) for renting the bike for 24 hours! The most important thing is to not get in an accident or else they make us pay for the whole part of the motorcycle that was knicked and that could cost at least $20 (relatively expensive). Although the roller coaster-roads proved to be a bit of a challenge for an amateur like myself, I had a good time and smehow managed to avoid any sort of calamity. In the evenings, our hostel and those nearby provided us with firedance shows. We sat outselves on straw mats laid out before the shore and awed at agile locals who harmoniously danced with the flames. It was the perfect way to end each day.

pb271238Thanksgiving was this week. Rangsit University has an international day celebration every year and since this time it was during November, Thanksgiving naturally became the theme of the ball. I didn’t think it would be anything too spectacular; just the international students and a few teachers and some turkey, which I don’t eat anyway. But Rangsit and Thailand never lets us down when it comes to partying. Walking past the new international building during the day, wepb271246 see a large sign that says “RSU Thanksgiving Party.” We realize that this event is going to be really exciting! Without disappointment, we arrive in the evening to a road on campus filled with stands of typical Thanksgiving food (turkey, stuffing, salad, mashed patatoes, breadrolls), Thai food, desserts and fruits, and drinks; all before a colorfully lit up stage hosting a live band. Students from all sectors of the University were there, the President, Dr. Arthit Ourairat, was there as well! I haven’t even met the president of Cal Poly being that I’ve studied there for three years already, yet in three pb271252months, I was able to meet the president of an international and local school of the same size, 20,000 students. Now that’s real. The image to the left illustrated a few of my friends from Bhutan, China, and Thailand dancing the night away; the girls were less shy than the boys at first but as more and more people joined in, it became a dance party on the street. After the party at school, a diverse bunch of us went to a nearby bar. The prince of Bhutan attends Rangsit University, International College and he was there as well. I hung out with a few Burmese and Bhutanese students and they enlightened me on the politics of the countries and I tried very hard to follow through the various accents and explanations.

Until soon…

Written by mosaiceye

November 27, 2008 at 5:08 am

Posted in Asia, Thailand, US Politics

Bangkok Dangerous

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Since I’ve called my experience here a “study abroad” trip, I figure I’d finally share a bit about my university life in between the numerous weekend jaunts. What I love about Rangsit University International College is that it gives me the opportunity I thought I’d never have to share a classroom with other students from places (some of which I had never heard of before) like Nauru Island and Bhutan, but also Nepal, China, Burma, Sweden, Finland, Denmark, Germany, and Thailand, of course. Most of the IC students I’ve met have an interest in gaining a more worldly perspective by meeting people from all over the globe. Rangsit also has a swimming pool, a can tine that’s surprisingly cheap, a weight room, a shrine, and a large gym with table tennis, volleyball, and basketball. The school sets up a market every Thursdays that vends clothing, costume jewelry, makeup, shoes, electronics, food, and even manicures. When I workout in the evenings, I share the track and field with student soccer players, cheerleaders (apparently Rangsit’s Cheerleading team is an infamous and spunky collection of cheerleading champions), random children, stray dogs, Thai drummers, and the track team. There’s always so much going on here.

I am taking five classes; three involving Thai culture and history, as well as two others specifically for my major (Social Sciences & Organizations); Cross Cultural Management and Organization Development. Although Rangsit offers programs of an “international standard,” the class difficulty level is much lower than at Cal Poly (I’m certainly not complaining, as most of the teachers understand that a top priority for most students is to travel and truly absorb more outside the classroom). Classes are relatively small, from 10 to 25 sundry students. I really enjoy Thai language because it’s challenging and we have an abundance of opportunity to practice even if we don’t want to. I also look forward to Organization Development because it’s an independent study and for an hour or two every Tuesday, I just converse with the professor, Dr. Paul, about current events and how it may tie into the class plus any questions I may have. I couldn’t help but ask him what the deal was with the Lady boys and how they are perceived by “Thai society” (the photo to the left is of a lady boy/potential-prostitute and I in Patong, Phuket Island). Like I said before, they are categorized as a completely separate gender from male and female but according to my one, straight-forward resource thus far, the Thai people sympathetically tolerate them more so than accept them. They believe that because of bad karma in a previous lifetime, they were reborn as such. Dr. Paul said there was “a really good one” here at Rangsit who got recruited by an American model agency…we shared a laugh or two because of it. He/she was lucky though because I’ve seen many Lady boys who end up as go-go dancers at overly-touristy beaches or even worse, prostitutes.

The three colors of the Thai flag, red-white-blue stand for nation-religion-king, an unofficial motto of Thailand. I witness evidence of all everyday, some more than others, but nevertheless it’s present in Thai routine, customs, and tradition. At 8am each morning and 6pm each evening, speakers scattered throughout the city blast the national anthem and everyone stops what they’re doing to stand and give respects. It seems that so many Thais have a united devotion and love for the King, whose symbol sits boldly at the center of the flag. However, from what I’ve learned about the current political situation in Thailand right now, its reputation of harmony through unity hasn’t been too well affirmed. The southern provinces of Thailand, bordering Malaysia (a predominantly Muslim country) has been the arena of pro-autonomy activity because of its distinctive religious, ethnic, cultural, and historical traits for more than a century. Thai authorities have attempted to suppress and assimilate those differences by changing administration over Islamic education and practices as well as indifference toward the local economy, standard of living, the rule of law and justice. This has resulted in an ambiance of resentment and alienation among the ethnic Malay Muslim population and has therefore provided the context for resistance and insurgency. The only two things the southern provinces are lacking to be an independent nation are a central government of its own and a standing army (small, seemingly insignificant things, really). It’s a 100-year battle between southern Muslim Thailand vs. the central government of Thailand in the fight to gain independence or fabricate a status of accord.

Everyone knows that the riots still continue to plague the news and keep tourists away from the land of the Thai, but not very many people understand why. There are issues with Cambodia, a former French colony because in 1962, the International Court of Justice in The Hague ruled that Preah Vihear Temple, built in the 9th century, belonged to Cambodia despite its location on Thai territory. Thai nationalists fear that the temple’s new title will weaken Thailand’s hand (UNESCO has claimed that its decision has no sway on overlapping land issues). In July, Thailand’s Constitutional Court ruled that the government was wrong when it signed a joint communiqué with Cambodia on the issue without consulting parliament and therefore, Foreign Minister Noppadon Pattama resigned. It is alleged that Thaksin, the past Prime Minister who protesters forced into ostracism, cut business deals in Cambodia during this time. For decades, Preah Vihear was off the map but the rocketing tourism of Angkor Wat, the temple that symbolizes Cambodia’s ancient glories and which I hope to visit next week, has inspired the country to repeat the process with Preah Vihear. For now though, Thailand is doing what it can to prevent a “loss of face” to Cambodia.

Many people have asked me why I chose Thailand out of all places besides the fact that it’s real cheap living here. I had a mysterious obsession with Thailand since I learned about the statistics, politics, and development of Southeast Asian countries in my Sociology classes at Cal Poly. Thailand always struck me because not only is it copious in culture, art, and smiles, but it’s #1 in reducing poverty in relation to GDP as well as HIV/AIDs rates. Since I’ve been here, I’ve realized that those precise statistics are generally impressive on paper. Dr. Paul, an economist, explained to me how simply increasing the amount of government spending (investing in large projects like the brand new Suvanaphumi International Airport) and consumerism automatically boosts GDP. That growth steers the assumption of a poverty decline, however, the same amount of beggars, if not more, still meander the streets. Today, my adoration for Thailand has intensified but for different reasons than the ones I held before, reasons which I’ll attempt to further explain in my blog posts to come…

I started off my passed weekend on Friday at a Buddhist temple called Wat Phra Dhammakaya. I witnessed the casting of a renowned monk, Phramongkolthepmuni (Sodh Candasaro), who dedicated his life to rediscovering the wisdom of Dhammakaya, the practice of bringing the mind to a standstill at the centre of the body to attain Dhamrnakaya. One ton of solid gold was melted down to swathe a remarkable clay model sculpted by a master monk at Dhammakaya. The stadium was filled with thousands of people clad in white. Some were unexpectedly welcoming and appreciative of our presence and interest in such an event and it turned out to be an interesting religious experience.

I ran my first soft core 6km marathon in Bangkok on Saturday night. It was the 11th Annual Amari Watergate Hotel and BMW Thailand Charity Midnight Run. Proceeds and registration fees went to a school for children who’s parents have passed away from HIV/AIDs. People from all over the world were there, including the National Running team of Thailand. Bryan, a student and teacher at Rangsit who we went with, won 2nd place, which is immensely impressive considering there were almost 4,000 other people running behind him. Some people were dressed up in droll yet ridiculous costumes which appeared to be impossible to run in (yet each character held their own in the race and pulled passed the finish line eventually). It was a lot of fun and I hope to attend more of these marathons/runs like the Turkey Trot, especially when I return to the States.

I’ve been training Muay Thai boxing for the last four weeks and it helped considerably to outlast the Midnight 6km run. Thai Boxing is a form of hard martial art practiced in several Southeast Asian countries and it has a long history in Thailand, where it’s the national sport. Muay Thai is referred to as “The Art of the Eight Limbs”, as the hands, shins, elbows, and knees are all used extensively in this art; a practitioner of Muay Thai has the ability to execute strikes using eight “points of contact” (as opposed to “two points,” the fists, in Western boxing and “four points,” fists and feet, used in the primarily sport-oriented forms of martial arts). Today, the honor of Muay Thai fighting is somewhat tainted; people are sometimes paid off easily to lose and the sport itself has become quite commercialized. Eight other students and I are being trained by a Thai fighter with 12 years of experience in his punch. We train from 6-8am from Monday to Friday and sometimes from 5-7pm. It is an extreme but exhilarating workout and we get VIP seats to fights, which foreigners would pay USD$30+ per show. It’s a three month program which would eventually earn us certification in Thai Boxing for a monthly cost (of course). I figured it be more worth it to learn such an art in the country it originated in the most authentic way possible. We went to a fight this passed weekend with our trainer and it was thrilling! We were there for almost three hours watching a few fights; each fight is composed of five three-minute rounds and two-minute breaks in between. We saw kids fighting who looked 15 but were probably 20 or 21 years old (most Thais are blessed with a youthful appearance way below their actual age), to champions with 10 years of experience who could’ve been 30 years old. The fighters enter the ring and do a dance (called Wai Khru) for a few minutes to honor their trainers/masters; I found myself rooting for those who danced thoroughly and gracefully (fly like a butterfly and then later sting like a bee). The photo to the right shows a few of the younger fighters performing part of the ritualistic dance. After learning a few techniques, it was interesting to see it implemented in the ring (as well as the damage it could do). We also have the opportunity to fight in a match in December if our trainer agrees that any one of us is ready. I can’t imagine myself being at that level in two months since there’s so many basics left to learn but I look forward to seeing what happens all the same…

Peace

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prasat_Preah_Vihear#Ancient_history

http://www.csmonitor.com/2008/0722/p06s02-wosc.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buddhism_in_Thailand
http://www.hrw.org/reports/2007/thailand0807/3.htm

Written by mosaiceye

October 14, 2008 at 3:41 am

My Rite of Passage on Phuket Island

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I figured I’d do it big for my 21st; bigger than a house party or an elaborate dinner, even bigger than Bangkok. A larger than expected group of us flew down to Phuket Island, a world famous Province known for James Bond Island (where one of the movies was filmed), its white-sand beaches, clear greenish water, it’s enormous Buddha overlooking the land below, and it’s bustling nightlife. Phuket is also Thailand’s largest island, about the size of Singapore!

We found a flight deal with a friend of a Thai friend’s who also goes to IC and he offered us a ticket priced at USD$90 instead of what were originally going to book, USD$125. We were a little weary because he didn’t give us a receipt or our tickets when we forked over USD$1800 (for all of us total). With a combination of desperation and faith in our friend who knows him, we went along with the plan nevertheless. We eventually got our tickets the morning of our one-and-half-hour flight and found ourselves on the island by evening time. Since we showed up with an entourage of 10, we were able to bargain down our hostel price at Pineapple Guest House from USD$5/night to USD$3/night and we had a dorm room all to ourselves. The British owner, Steve, and his Thai wife Lek, were incredibly welcoming and helpful. Some of us wasted no time taking a dip in the ocean water of Karon Beach, a nationally rated 4.5 star beach where we stayed. We threw on our swim suits after dinner and went for a night walk along the beach. The sand felt squeaky smooth under our soles and the ocean was as lukewarm as bath water. Apparently, Thai people never go to Phuket unless they work there because after the 2004 Tsunami, locals claimed to see ghost Farang dancing in the water (although more Thai people died than foreigners on the Island due to the Tsunami). Thai people believe very strongly in spirits and ghosts. I’ve seen trees wrapped in brightly-colored ribbon that are offerings to the spirits who reside in the area. Karma and spirits come in to play often, especially since 95% of Thailand’s population is Buddhist. Not only are Thailand’s architecture and customs heavily influenced by other cultures like that of India and China, but its religion is too. Three major forces have influenced the development of Buddhism in Thailand. Folk religion is the a major influence on Thai Buddhism; it attempts to propitiate and attract the favor of local spirits (known as phi). Thais also believe that tattoos are often religious passages or symbols which offer protection to the wearer. The more superstitious the person, the more tattoos they are apt to have. If any of you watch the program “Lost,” remember when Jack was in Thailand; he got a controversial tattoo from his Thai girlfriend, it could have been to protect him from the dangerous spirits (specifically her Thai male friends/family members who were after him at the time) and eventually the forthcoming spirits of the island! Anyway, I don’t believe in ghosts but that night, the light reflecting off the water tricked my eyes into seeing white figures dancing on the surface and then being washed away with the waves. I couldn’t help but get chills.

The Vegetarian Festival was also celebrated famously in Phuket and we hoped to have better luck there than we did in Chinatown. The next day, we arrived in Phuket Town, the center of the gala, and were pleased to discover ceremonies taking place at a brightly lit Buddhist temple, children decorating the streets with a variety of firecrackers, and yellow flags everywhere. Not only did I finally get to taste Mango and sticky rice (which, mind you, is delicious!), but I got to experience a cultural snippet of this 10-day festivity and I realized that it’s about more than just vegetarian spring rolls. We witnessed a ceremony where men shook their heads and rolled their eyes back while falling into a trance to the heavy beat of drums. After doing a bit of research, I learned that these men are named “Ma Song,” or entranced horses. They are devotees whom the gods enter during the fest. They manifest supernatural powers and perform self-tortures in order to shift evil from individuals onto themselves, and to bring the community good luck. Fireworks and drums are sounded loudly, especially during ceremonies so the noise drives away evil spirits. They even had 10 rules for the festival that reminded me of those which we must follow before entering the praying room in a Jain temple.

10 Rules for the Vegetarian Festival
1. Cleanliness of bodies during the festival
2. Clean kitchen utensils used separately from others who do not join the festival
3. Wear white during the festival
4. Behave physically and mentally
5. No meat eating
6. No sex
7. No alcoholic drinks
8. People at mourning period should not attend the festival
9. Pregnant ladies should not watch any ritual
10. Ladies with period should not attend the ritual

We ended up purchasing a diverse batch of fireworks for ourselves for about USD$10 and marveled at the glitz and sparks for a short and exciting time on the beach. The firecracker-bursting occasion made me reminiscent of Diwali (which is coming up really soon!) but I had a lot of fun. The following day, we took a tour to Phi Phi Island and went snorkeling. Although Phi Phi was incredibly touristy and therefore expensive, it was breathtakingly beautiful. It was a full-day tour and by the time we got back to our hostel, it was time for dinner. We went out with a friend named Gary, who lives in Phuket. He took us to a fabulous restaurant called Farang Restaurant (so creative) where I began my early birthday celebration with some quality red wine and delicious, dark chocolate cake. Post-dinner, we went to Patong, a town renowned for it’s collection of bars, clubs, and lounges. We met up with the rest of our friends from IC (who were staying on a different beach) and danced until night passed. For the rest of the vacation, two of my friends rented motorcycle scooters so they took us around the island. We spent the rest of our fleeting time lounging lazily on the beach and floating until wrinkly in the water. Also, thank you all so much for the calls, emails, and wishes; it was a magnificent 21st birthday jamboree :]!

On Monday, the day we were to fly back to Rangsit, we realized that some of our Finnish friends who had an early flight had troubles getting on the plane because supposedly, their tickets were canceled. As more of us turned up at the airport, we learned that more of us were in the same predicament. After anxiety and confrontation, we discovered that fraudulent credit cards were used to purchase these tickets. Three of my friends and I were all on the same flight and our tickets were not canceled so we got back on time. However, the rest of our group not only had to wait at the airport for four+ more hours, but they had to eventually pay an extra USD$90 upfront to get their flights back. Although they were reimbursed upon arrival by the charlatan himself, we have reported it to the school and things are currently being taken care of. The assistant dean of IC, Gessy, who is helping us sort out the dilemma is as concerned about us as a good friend would be, so that’s at least comforting. In Thai culture, “losing face” is a vital affair to be in so I’m hoping, because of that, someone will come straight and justice will be served. As for us, we’ve learned our lesson about not trusting any “friend of a friend” despite how worthy the deal may seem.

C

Written by mosaiceye

October 9, 2008 at 7:48 am

Posted in Asia, Thailand

An elephant in the room

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Imagine 50 Farang (foreign) students in two Rangsit University buses traveling 8 hours north of Bangkok to a beautiful city named Chiang Mai…that was my classmates and I last weekend on a four-day trip organized by the International College (IC). Chiang Mai is the second largest province in Thailand, bordering Burma in the northern part of the country. It’s incredibly different from Bangkok; the hustle and bustle is toned down quite a bit, it’s lush, tropical and consequently, containing fresher air to breathe in. We left at around 10pm Thursday night and after a long a tiresome bus ride, we finally arrived at 6am the following morning. The hotel they put us in, Chiang Mai Flora, was quaint and in a quiet but close location to the happenings. We started the day early with a nap, breakfast, and a journey to Doi Suthep where we trekked up over 100 steps built between two elaborate model dragons to a beautiful Buddhist temple in the mountains. I also saw a statue of a decorated white elephant, which happens to be a royal symbol of Thailand. After a day of paying respects and awing at the intricacies of Thai architecture, we ate dinner at a restaurant that provided us with a special vegetarian buffet and entertainment entailing various forms of Thai dance and sword juggling. This was the first trip with most of the students in my program (USAC) and a lot of us decided to go out to experience the night life of Chiang Mai. We found ourselves at a club called Fashion listening to live music and sitting amongst young, local Thais. Almost every club or bar I’ve gone to has provided its audience with a fabulous live band or DJ, whether it’s them covering English songs or exposing us to famous Thai songs, I’ve always enjoyed it.

The next day we went to an Elephant camp. Upon entrance, we witnessed a show where the elephants looked awkward and unnatural playing soccer, sitting and lying down on the ground, and collecting food from its spectators. After the show, people had the opportunity to sit on the elephants’ trunks, backs, and legs for a photo. The most fascinating thing though was that they had trained the elephants to paint pictures of flowers, trees, and themselves, of course. It just proves how intelligent and obedient they are and we were amused with every stroke and spot painted. The camp, Maesa Elephant camp, boasts Ripley’s Believe it or Not! and Guinness World Book records for its unlikely group of artistic elephants. After talking to one of my friends who has been here for a few months now and experiencing being there myself, I learned that Maesa Elephant Camp is not only one of the most popular in Thailand, but also the most abusive to its elephants. The good thing about this camp as opposed to the one in Kanchanaburi was that it was in the midst of what looks like a forest in the mountains rather than a quasi-desert. However, I could see the evidence of mistreatment on their foreheads and I can’t help but believe, in their eyes as well. Four of us decided to boycott the planned elephant ride so they threw us on an ox cart instead and it somewhat defeated our purpose. We did get to see simple Thai natives going about their daily lives with no surrounding power lines or cars on a beautiful mountain landscape so that made it more worthwhile.

That night, we went to a place called Walking Street, which was a long road filled by stands decorated with art, gifts, and other souvenirs for cheap. We spent a good three of four hours there before we returned to the hotel. We arrived back at Rangsit at 2am Monday morning after a seemingly short bus ride. A few of us played games at the back of the bus for a couple ours and then sprawled ourselves across the seats in an attempt to sleep the rest of the ride away.

Since most don’t have class on Mondays, a few of us decided to take a trip to Bangkok for the day. I had to go the Immigration office to fix a mistake on my passport (my Visa was stamped to expire October 5 instead of December 5) and I was pleased to see that it was a simple cross-out and re-stamp to fix it. Then we went to Chinatown because it was the hub of celebration for a Vegetarian Festival that started that day, which lasts 10 days for the ending of Buddhist Lent. We were able to find yellow flags (that says “we are celebrating the festival with a variety of vegetarian/vegan curries and dishes!”) at most food stands on the street that sell spring rolls (yay!) and other deep-fried delicacies. The festival turned out to be short of what we imagined as a celebration due to it’s lack of parades and confetti and fireworks but at least we got an unlimited choice of veggie food. After that, we went to an International Movie Festival near a posh shopping mall called Siam Paragon. We saw a Swedish film titled “Let the Right One In” about a vampire trapped in a 12-year old girl’s body. It was twisted and therefore horribly entertaining but most times, it didn’t make sense. Somehow it got raving international reviews. We also saw another called “The Sky Below” about the India/Pakistan “mind-frontier” division in 1947. I thought it was too general and I left the theatre still confused about the event and all that’s followed. There was a question and answer session with the director, Sara Singh, preceding the movie and it was impressive because she filmed the whole movie herself, without a crew of any kind. We were trying to guess where she was from the whole time and most of us predicted correctly that she was from NYC…something about them New Yorkers, I don’t know if it’s the accent or the attitude but it always stands out. Despite its generality, the movie sparked some good conversation between my friends and I about refugees and what it must be like to go back “home” (whether it be to Pakistan or wherever else), the abductions and violence that has emerged from this separation, and British influence in this situation (it reminded me if the reckless border-drawing done in Africa).

Last week, the United States Ambassador to Thailand, Eric G. John spent a few short hours at Rangsit University for the first time in our school’s history. “His Excellency” (which our President awkwardly dubbed him) spent only half an hour with the students in a conference room to answer questions and establish his credibility. Unfortunately, it wasn’t enough time for either. After three questions, mostly concerning his background, we quickly proceeded to tea time and a quick photo of the students with the ambassador, and soon he was ushered off. I did realize that Rangsit University International College takes great pride in offering an education to USAC students from countries like USA, Sweden, Denmark, Finland, Netherlands, Burma, China, Korea, etc. and they are striving to improve its facilities and increase its international student body. I will definitely dedicate a post to my “typical” life around Rangsit University and close beyond! Stay tuned.

Peace

Written by mosaiceye

October 7, 2008 at 9:32 am

Posted in Asia, Thailand

“No woman no cry. No music I die”

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It’s the simple hospitality of people here which I adore. A group of us girls decided to do an overnight trip to Kanchanaburi (about two hours away from Rangsit University) a couple of weekends ago. It was a cheap but incredibly eventful trip and everything worked out perfectly. We ended up staying at a hostel called “Jolly Frog,” which sat pleasantly along River Kwai and costed us USD$3 a night. Upon arrival, we were immediately greeted by a little Asian man who called himself Jack Sparrow, the Thai version that is, who not only worked there but also looked nothing like the typical image of a Caribbean pirate. We wanted to visit the Tiger Temple that was 30km away but got there too late. Apparently, it started when a few monks took in a cub whose mother was killed in 1999 and since, adopted cubs and tigers who are orphaned or “helpless.” Today, people can go and pet the tigers and play with the cubs, you can even have an adult tiger placed on your lap for photo costing a 1000 baht (about USD$30). It sounded like a noble cause at first but I also heard that the tigers are so drugged up that they probably don’t know what is going on the half time. I’m glad we didn’t end up contributing our funds to the cause because it would have just made me depressed.

Instead, we visited the Cemetery (a good substitute to avoid depression…) of those who died constructing the Death Railroad back during World War II times connecting Burma and Thailand over River Kwai. It was my first time to a cemetery and I was overcome with a surprising peacefulness and tranquility (or maybe that was the heat giving me a quasi-coma.) We visited a night market after dinner that had everything from radios to puppies…yes, puppies! I’ve been searching for a pet store in the States that would allow me to just play with the pups because surely they wouldn’t want the poor things to be cooped up in a cage all day long. But most don’t allow it because the puppies’ immune systems are weak and they could get sick easily. At the market, I played with a the cutest googly-eyed, baby pug and turns out that it was only USD$130 (vs. almost USD$1000 in the states, from what I’ve seen). One of my friends named it Chetna Jr and honestly, I’m not sure I approve of that name but I was in love.

We spent the rest of the evening at a place called Buddha Bar, a very caribbean-influenced hookah lounge. By the end of the night, Buddha Bar became my favorite place in Thailand thus far. The manager, another Thai who called himself Jack Sparrow (and also looked more like the pirate himself), was extremely welcoming and friendly. He kept shouting at passerby tourists, “welcome to Buddha bar! Welcome to alcohol,” which of course, did nothing but left them scurrying away, fearful of even making eye contact. He shared with us a fabulous playlist of Thai reggae music, which I now love and will certainly invest in. It further helped me understand his comment complementing Bob Marley’s lyric. Two hours passed our expected bedtime, we headed back to the hostel because we had to wake up early the next morning for a tour. However, at the Jolly Frog, we adventurously took up an invitation to hang out with a few locals and Israeli tourists on the River Kwai in the backyard. After being taught the words to a popular Thai reggae song called “No War” by Job 2 Do, we finally decided to hit the sack at 3am.

The next day we boarded a tour of the Erawan Waterfalls, the Death Railway, and Kwai River. The seven step waterfalls were a worthwhile hike because each step brought a different and new view. It was a bit of a challenge to swim in the pools of water because there were gigantic fish ready to nibble on our skin when we entered the water. It reminded me of the “doctor fish” I learned about in Singapore; tiny black fish that feed off dead skin, especially on feet. They actually have doctor fish spa resorts in places like Japan and Croatia and it’s rather disgusting to see them at work on peoples’ toes and heels but it works apparently. Anyway, we sat on the edge of the rocks for almost an hour contemplating the risk of even a quick dip. I eventually built up the courage to do a lap, my technique being to keep moving so those feisty nibblers didn’t have a chance at me; it turned out to be one of the most tiresome laps I’ve swam in my day.

One of my avid interests coming to Thailand was to ride an elephant and we had the chance to do it during our tour. I realized finally that the imagined spectacle of it was no where close to spectacular. The elephants were not treated well; they were hit across the head with bamboo sticks for no good reason obvious to me, their ears were pulled left and right controllingly, and they were clearly not happy. I almost got whacked straight across the head by a trunk (the image caught in action to the left) and I don’t blame them. Someone on our tour said “they’re just selfish elephants. All they want from us is to food.” I don’t know since when the need for survival became selfish nor do I believe elephants, of all animals, could even be closely described as that. It was just a downer, really. But, I always loved elephants and being here has made me love them even more. Their massivity and overall friendliness (when they’re content and not frustrated) is amazing…that seemingly unconventional pairing of characteristics is what fascinates me about them (“Gentle giants”).

We returned to Pathumthani Saturday evening so that we could attend the field trip organized to one of the many floating markets of Thailand the next morning. We ended up arriving there at 11am, which was too late to see many of those infamous, lovely ladies floating around with a rainbow of fruits decorating their canoes. We did visit a beautiful temple in the midst of what seemed like a jungle. We learned the process of paying respects in a Buddhist temple (since we’ll be visiting many during the weeks to come). We lit three incense sticks and a yellow candle which we stuck in a pit of sand before a gaudy but rich collection of golden Buddhas. Then, out of Chinese traditional influence, we shook a container of numbered sticks until one fell out; the number being the key to a fortune. I got a #7 but my fortune didn’t end up fazing me enough for recollection.

Last Tuesday, a relatively large group of us went to a theatre called Siam Niramit for my Art Appreciation course with the teacher, Ajaan Prinda (whom everyone loves due to her high energy, persistence in helping us learn and explore the most of Thai culture, and her one of a kind humor and positive attitude). It costed us 1000 Baht (approximately USD$30), which was a steep price for us students. The buffet dinner, mini exhibits of weaving, Thai art, and costume display, as well as the show itself, ended up being worth so much more. There was a satisfying amount of vegetarian options including spring rolls (my favorite), fruits, and brightly colored desserts which I indulged in thoroughly. With fulfilled bellies and a curious excitement, we proceeded into a luxurious theatre where we experienced a whole array of traditional Thai music, dance, and decoration from various areas of the country. Elephants and goats were used as props and the backdrops were breathtaking. The costumes were magnificent and so immensely cultural and distinguishable with each major area of Thailand; they each had their own style, simplicity or complexity. Unfortunately, cameras were not permitted in the theatre so I don’t have any photos of the actual show to share with you but the overall performance reminded us Americans of that which we’d experience on Broadway, but for considerably cheaper…sweet deal!

Until next…

Written by mosaiceye

September 30, 2008 at 8:15 am

Posted in Asia, Thailand

CSI: Thailand, Episode 1

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Sawadee Kah! First of all, for those of you worldly folks keeping up with the news, you must know about the protesting that was going on in Bangkok; “Bloodshed and riots,” “One killed, dozens injured,” “Thailand State of Emergency.” In all reality though, my peers (Thai and foreign) and I haven’t experienced anything as far-fetched as the media portrays since I’ve been here. Bangkok was world-awarded as the best place to visit in 2008 and I still believe it. I guess everyone wants a story to tell whether it’s authentic or inflated and mine is that I love BKK.

Although it’s already been three weeks into my Thailand escapade, this is my first post, so bare with me as there are a million and one details I can’t really include. I’m attending a private and well-known university called Rangsit University (International College) in the Pathumthani Province, one of 76 in Thailand. Throughout the city, there are golden shrines of the king and miniature but ornate models of Buddhist temples decorating even the bleakest of streets. I’ve heard numerous people say “Thai people love their King. They would die for him.” Photos of the King and Queen grace the carts of street vendors, the malls, and vehicle dashboards. It makes a bit of sense since His Majesty King Pumiphon Adunyadet (aka Rama IX) is now the longest reigning monarch in the world. I also wonder if there’s some sort of connection between that ever-increasing devotion and Thailand’s lack of historical colonialism…fortunate lack thereof, in my opinion.

Two weeks ago, a group of us decided to venture off into central Bangkok for a night of debauchery, or at least worthwhile exploration and then a night of good music and dance. We walked around the Grand Palace and Wat Pho (with the Reclining Buddha) for the majority of the day. It was spectacular and if it was sunnier that day, I truly believe I’d be blind by now with all the sunlight reflecting off all that gold left and right. Every inch of the architecture was highly crafted and so rich in color and detail. The Reclining Buddha was even larger than any photo could capture; it was breathtaking. Apparently, people all over Thailand, or at least Bangkok, get trained in massage therapy at Wat Pho. We thought it appropriate and necessary to get one. It was my first Thai massage and after the forced bending, flexing, pressurizing and cracking, I walked out feeling surprisingly relaxed and refreshed. A separate night in Bangkok, we planned to go to a club called 808 despite our cab driver insisting we go to “Club Hollywood” and watch a “Ping Pong” show (which foreigners are known to love, unfortunately. More on that later). we realized that we didn’t want to pay USD$16 cover charge in Thailand and decided to go to a different club. We crammed 5 of us in a 3-person Tuk Tuk to travel 20 minutes in the pouring rain to another dance club called Route 66. It was an adventure to say the least! Despite the fact that we showed up to the club looking and probably smelling like wet dogs, it was well worth it.

We visited Pataya Beach the next weekend, and I’m not going to lie, it is known for sex tourism, meaning lots of old creepy men and young Thai girls with short skirts or none at all. We stayed at a quieter beach more south called Jomtien and we spared ourselves the horny men and their Thai companions. We walked passed an old, white man holding a young Thai boy’s hand and that’s when it really hit me…it all made me nauseous. With Thailand’s reputation in sex tourism, I wonder what the government is doing about it and how prostitutes and foreign men looking for sex are perceived by locals. We were talking about how it could be a “win-win” for both the man and the woman; he gets sex, and she gets money (the term “gold-digger” was thrown around) and the slim faith of being taken away on a farang (foreigner) rendezvous. I really think it’s more than that though, I mean, who would want to sleep with 20 different, desperate men to still find herself bending over a pool table displaying the world her panties or lack thereof? Someone was reading the obituary section of the Pataya newspaper and there were three: all old, lonely, foreign men, discovered weeks or months after their deaths of “natural causes.” It’s hard not to imagine perhaps a heart attack due to body strain…

If you pay attention, you can find them anywhere; they have abnormally large feet and hands for a woman typically, they’re usually dressed either boyishly or a bit too promiscuously, some of them wear lip liner (dead give-away), and the Thai people have categorized them as a third gender, “lady boys.” I’m incredibly curious about this newfound group of mine. I don’t know if they’re automatically homosexual or how they are accepted here in society, I hope to find out a little bit about it.

So this post is an account of my experiences in Bangkok the first 10 days. The next 3.5 months will be a constant investigation to learn and adapt to a simple yet magnificent Thai lifestyle, which I’ll continue to blog (I do it all for the fans:)!

C

Written by mosaiceye

September 25, 2008 at 6:42 am

Posted in Asia, Thailand