Archive for September 2008
“No woman no cry. No music I die”
It’s the simple hospitality of people here which I adore. A group of us girls decided to do an overnight trip to
Kanchanaburi (about two hours away from Rangsit University) a couple of weekends ago. It was a cheap but incredibly eventful trip and everything worked out perfectly. We ended up staying at a hostel called “Jolly Frog,” which sat pleasantly along River Kwai and costed us USD$3 a night. Upon arrival, we were immediately greeted by a little Asian man who called himself Jack Sparrow, the Thai version that is, who not only worked there but also looked nothing like the typical image of a Caribbean pirate. We wanted to visit the Tiger Temple that was 30km away but got there too late. Apparently, it started when a few monks took in a cub whose mother was killed in 1999 and since, adopted cubs and tigers who are orphaned or “helpless.” Today, people can go and pet the tigers and play with the cubs, you can even have an adult tiger placed on your lap for photo costing a 1000 baht (about USD$30). It sounded like a noble cause at first but I also heard that the tigers are so drugged up that they probably don’t know what is going on the half time. I’m glad we didn’t end up contributing our funds to the cause because it
would have just made me depressed.
Instead, we visited the Cemetery (a good substitute to avoid depression…) of those who died constructing the Death Railroad back during World War II times connecting Burma and Thailand over River Kwai. It was my first time to a cemetery and I was overcome with a surprising peacefulness and tranquility (or maybe that was the heat giving me a quasi-coma.) We visited a night market after dinner that had everything from radios to puppies…yes, puppies! I’ve been searching for a pet store in the States that would allow me to
just play with the pups because surely they wouldn’t want the poor things to be cooped up in a cage all day long. But most don’t allow it because the puppies’ immune systems are weak and they could get sick easily. At the market, I played with a the cutest googly-eyed, baby pug and turns out that it was only USD$130 (vs. almost USD$1000 in the states, from what I’ve seen). One of my friends named it Chetna Jr and honestly, I’m not sure I approve of that name but I was in love.
We spent the rest of the evening at a place called Buddha Bar, a very caribbean-influenced hookah lounge. By the end of the night, Buddha Bar became my favorite place in Thailand thus far. The manager, another Thai who called himself Jack Sparrow (and also looked more like the pirate himself), was extremely welcoming
and friendly. He kept shouting at passerby tourists, “welcome to Buddha bar! Welcome to alcohol,” which of course, did nothing but left them scurrying away, fearful of even making eye contact. He shared with us a fabulous playlist of Thai reggae music, which I now love and will certainly invest in. It further helped me understand his comment complementing Bob Marley’s lyric. Two hours passed our expected bedtime, we headed back to the hostel because we had to wake up early the next morning for a tour. However, at the Jolly Frog, we adventurously took up an invitation to hang out with a few locals and Israeli tourists on the River Kwai in the backyard. After being taught the words to a popular Thai reggae song called “No War” by Job 2 Do, we finally decided to hit the sack at 3am.
The next day we boarded a tour of the Erawan Waterfalls, the Death Railway, and Kwai River. The seven step waterfalls were a worthwhile hike because each step brought a different and new view. It was a bit of a challenge to swim in the pools of water because there were gigantic fish ready to nibble on our skin when we entered the water. It reminded me of the “doctor fish” I learned about in Singapore; tiny black fish that feed off dead skin, especially on feet. They actually have doctor fish spa resorts in places like Japan and Croatia and it’s rather disgusting to see them at work on peoples’ toes and heels but it works apparently. Anyway, we sat on the edge of the rocks for almost an hour contemplating the risk of even a quick dip. I eventually built up the courage to do a lap, my technique being to keep moving so those feisty nibblers didn’t have a chance at me; it turned out to be one of the most tiresome laps I’ve swam in my day.
One of my avid interests coming to Thailand was to ride an elephant and we had the chance to do it during our tour. I realized finally that the imagined spectacle of it was no where close to spectacular. The elephants were not treated well; they were hit across the head with bamboo sticks for no good reason obvious to me, their ears were pulled left and right controllingly, and they were clearly not happy. I almost got whacked straight across the head by a trunk (the image caught in action to the left) and I don’t blame them. Someone on our tour said “they’re just selfish elephants. All they want from us is to food.” I don’t know since when the need for survival became selfish nor do I believe elephants, of all animals, could even be closely described as that. It was just a downer, really. But, I always loved elephants and being here has made me love them even more. Their massivity and overall friendliness (when they’re content and not frustrated) is amazing…that seemingly unconventional pairing of characteristics is what fascinates me about them (“Gentle giants”).
We returned to Pathumthani Saturday evening so that we could attend the field trip organized to one of the
many floating markets of Thailand the next morning. We ended up arriving there at 11am, which was too late to see many of those infamous, lovely ladies floating around with a rainbow of fruits decorating their canoes. We did visit a beautiful temple in the midst of what seemed like a jungle. We learned the process of paying respects in a Buddhist temple (since we’ll be visiting many during the weeks to come). We lit three incense sticks and a yellow candle which we stuck in a pit of sand before a gaudy but rich collection of golden Buddhas. Then, out of Chinese traditional influence, we shook a container of numbered sticks until one fell out; the number being the key to a fortune. I got a #7 but my fortune didn’t end up fazing me enough for recollection.
Last Tuesday, a relatively large group of us went to a theatre called Siam Niramit for my Art Appreciation course with the teacher, Ajaan Prinda (whom everyone loves due to her high energy, persistence in helping us learn and explore the most of Thai culture, and her one of a kind humor and positive attitude). It costed
us 1000 Baht (approximately USD$30), which was a steep price for us students. The buffet dinner, mini exhibits of weaving, Thai art, and costume display, as well as the show itself, ended up being worth so much more. There was a satisfying amount of vegetarian options including spring rolls (my favorite), fruits, and brightly colored desserts which I indulged in thoroughly. With fulfilled bellies and a curious excitement, we proceeded into a luxurious theatre where we experienced a whole array of traditional Thai music, dance, and decoration from various areas of the country. Elephants and goats were used as props and the backdrops were breathtaking. The costumes were magnificent and so immensely cultural and distinguishable with each major area of Thailand; they each had their own style, simplicity or complexity. Unfortunately, cameras were not permitted in the theatre so I don’t have any photos of the actual show to share with you but the overall performance reminded us Americans of that which we’d experience on Broadway, but for considerably cheaper…sweet deal!
Until next…
CSI: Thailand, Episode 1
Sawadee Kah! First of all, for those of you worldly folks keeping up with the news, you must know about the protesting that was going on in Bangkok; “Bloodshed and riots,” “One killed, dozens injured,” “Thailand State of Emergency.” In all reality though, my peers (Thai and foreign) and I haven’t experienced anything as far-fetched as the media portrays since I’ve been here. Bangkok was world-awarded as the best place to visit in 2008 and I still believe it. I guess everyone wants a story to tell whether it’s authentic or inflated and mine is that I love BKK.
Although it’s already been three weeks into my Thailand escapade, this is my first post, so bare with me as there are a million and one details I can’t really include. I’m attending a private and well-known university
called Rangsit University (International College) in the Pathumthani Province, one of 76 in Thailand. Throughout the city, there are golden shrines of the king and miniature but ornate models of Buddhist temples decorating even the bleakest of streets. I’ve heard numerous people say “Thai people love their King. They would die for him.” Photos of the King and Queen grace the carts of street vendors, the malls, and vehicle dashboards. It makes a bit of sense since His Majesty King Pumiphon Adunyadet (aka Rama IX)
is now the longest reigning monarch in the world. I also wonder if there’s some sort of connection between that ever-increasing devotion and Thailand’s lack of historical colonialism…fortunate lack thereof, in my opinion.
Two weeks ago, a group of us decided to venture off into central Bangkok for a night of debauchery, or at least worthwhile exploration and then a night of good music and dance. We walked around the Grand Palace and Wat Pho (with the Reclining Buddha) for the majority of the day. It was
spectacular and if it was sunnier that day, I truly believe I’d be blind by now with all the sunlight reflecting off all that gold left and right. Every inch of the architecture was highly crafted and so rich in color and detail. The Reclining Buddha was even larger than any photo could capture; it was breathtaking. Apparently, people all over Thailand, or at least Bangkok, get trained in massage therapy at Wat Pho. We thought it appropriate and necessary to get one. It was my first Thai massage and after the forced bending, flexing, pressurizing and cracking, I walked out feeling surprisingly relaxed and refreshed. A separate night in Bangkok, we planned to go to a club called 808 despite our cab driver insisting we go to “Club Hollywood” and watch a “Ping Pong” show (which foreigners are known to love, unfortunately. More on that later). we realized that we didn’t want to pay USD$16 cover charge in Thailand and decided to go to a different club. We crammed 5 of us in a 3-person Tuk Tuk to travel 20 minutes in the pouring rain to another dance club called Route 66. It was an adventure to say the least! Despite the fact that we showed up to the club looking and probably smelling like wet dogs, it was well worth it.

We visited Pataya Beach the next weekend, and I’m not going to lie, it is known for sex tourism, meaning lots of old creepy men and young Thai girls with short skirts or none at all. We stayed at a quieter beach more south called Jomtien and we spared ourselves the horny men and their Thai companions. We walked passed an old, white man holding a young Thai boy’s hand and that’s when it really hit me…it all made me nauseous. With Thailand’s reputation in sex tourism, I wonder what the government is doing about it and how prostitutes and foreign men looking for sex are perceived by locals. We were talking about how it could be a “win-win” for both the man and the woman; he gets sex, and she gets money (the term “gold-digger” was thrown around) and the slim faith of being taken away on a farang (foreigner) rendezvous. I really think it’s more than that though, I mean, who would want to sleep with 20 different, desperate men to still find herself bending over a pool table displaying the world her panties or lack thereof? Someone was reading the obituary section of the Pataya newspaper and there were three: all old, lonely, foreign men, discovered weeks or months after their deaths of “natural causes.” It’s hard not to imagine perhaps a heart attack due to body strain…
If you pay attention, you can find them anywhere; they have abnormally large feet and hands for a woman typically, they’re usually dressed either boyishly or a bit too promiscuously, some of them wear lip liner (dead give-away), and the Thai people have categorized them as a third gender, “lady boys.” I’m incredibly curious about this newfound group of mine. I don’t know if they’re automatically homosexual or how they are accepted here in society, I hope to find out a little bit about it.
So this post is an account of my experiences in Bangkok the first 10 days. The next 3.5 months will be a constant investigation to learn and adapt to a simple yet magnificent Thai lifestyle, which I’ll continue to blog (I do it all for the fans:)!
C
It’s more than just a “Fine City”
I began my journey through Asia in Singapore, a wonderful, little country infamous for its undoubtable cleanliness and a surprisingly diverse population. The country has four official languages; Telugu, Malay, one of the many Chinese dialects, and lucky for me, English. It’s truly an ideal place to live and that explains how so many people work and therefore now live there. It’s known for shopping, which I’m too cheap for, and for eating, which I indulged in alternatively. Everyone knows Singapore as the place you can only legally purchase gum at a pharmacy and an immediate impression could be that they’re all horribly anal. Well, dear fans, the truth of the matter is, silly people used to stick gum in between the cracks of the train (MRT) doors, making them stick when they closed. Now, mind you, that the Singaporians take great pride in their MRT system, (and that they should because it is marvelous, so much so that even I, Queen of Misdirection, could use it easily), and so they outlawed gum chewing.
ause a fab friend named Riga (first shout out, lucky you =) is working there temporarily. My 10-day stay was more than enough to gain a sense of the atmosphere. I felt incredibly safe and people are polite, minding their own business almost completely.
Singapore’s name (Singapura aka “Lion City”). I spent a day at Sentosa Island (literally a 20 minute sky train ride from the mainland). It’s been a tourist attraction for years and it’s a family-oriented place. I got to pet a boa-constrictor and hang out with a parrot on my shoulder which I was pretty excited about. Sentosa is also up and coming with large areas under construction upon entrance of the island. It’s not too attractive now but it’s soon to be transformed into magnificent hotels and resorts along the river and overlooking the breathtaking Singapore skyline.
utiful and the place we stayed at was intimate and very private. After lounging around for a few fleeting hours, we decided to hike up to a nearby town to grab food, all the while, we got eaten alive (I realized that ignoring a bug bite takes an enormous amount of disciple, that which I lack altogether). As our bites grew by the minute, we watched the sunset from our very own elevated, wooden-shelter above the ocean waves. There was a massive thunder storm in the distance, so we got front row seats to a lightening show without the rain or scare. It was all rather romantical :].We invested my last day there into exploring Chinatown, which far superseded Little India in both authenticy and culture. It was the cheapest shopping I found in Singapore and I had to literally brace myself from a weighty purchase frenzy. Then we went back to Riga’s apartment and spent the last few hours pouring our feminine souls into Carrie, Miranda, Samantha, and Charlotte’s New York City lives. It couldn’t have been better.
Peace
